IngaLls Peak South Face
August 29, 2021
Being an excelent first...
alpine climb, I decided to take my friend Sally up the South face of Ingalls peak! I had done a lot of Washington classics by now, but one of the main ones on my list to get to had been Ingalls peak. How could I miss it?! It is nestled in the Teannaway with a beautiful view of the Stuart range and the Enchantments in the background. Even if the climbing was awful, you'd still have a great day just because of where you are.
When we were planning our climb, my husband Dan wanted to join as well, so we decided to try to see how efficient we could be as a team of three! The weather forecast wasn't super ideal, but in true east-side fashion, we had a stunning day, and we had only two other parties on route!
Pointing out Ingalls and showing Sally where we're going to be climbing.
Mt. Stuart from Ingalls Lake. Whadda beaut!
We hiked on up to the base of the climb, with the stunning Mt. Stuart looming behind us. This was my third time up here in about a month, and I don't think I'll get tired of it any time soon.
Ingall's South ridge (face) is a relatively easy climb, being equated to the South face of The Tooth in terms of difficulty, and in terms of being a great first alpine climb! It is 4 pitches of 5.4, and has a 5.6 pitch option in the middle. Much of the rock is Serpentine, which is actually quite slick and keeps the climb interesting! To do this climb efficiently as a team of three, we decided to have two 60m ropes and I led all pitches while clipping both ropes. Sally was tied to the end of one of the ropes, and Dan was on the other. This meant that when I got to the top I had to belay both on my alpine ATC, and it meant that they could climb relatively close to eachother (with a gap of course so that if the person above fell, they wouldn't fall on the person below). For it being Sally's first alpine climb, she said it was great to have a fellow climber close by to ask questions to and be a distraction from any fear that may pop up.
Climbing on two 60m ropes was great with a team of three because it meant that we could lead the pitches in long 60m pitches. We ended up doing the climb in 3 pitches, which was actually quite efficient! Being able to rappel down in 60m lengths made it so that we were able to descend in 2 rappels. This really improved our time, and the climb itself only took about three hours, which for a team of three on a 4 pitch route isn't bad if I say so myself!
The slippery Serpentine rock makes it so that you certainly need to think about your footing, and this can be a bit heady for a new climber, or a new leader. However once you get used to it, it is pretty cruiser!
We were all very happy to get out in a gorgeous place and so simply be alive in the time and space that we are in. Thankful for life.
Approaching the base of the climb.
Here we goooo
Getting ready to lead the 5.6 crack. Thanks for the pic, Sally!
Hard to beat this!
Total mileage of the day - 12 miles
Total elevation gain - 5,000ft
Total time - About 10 hours
Type of climbing and time spent on wall - 5.4-5.6, 4 to 3 pitch climb. Aproximately 3 hours spent on the climb and rappel.
GPS via Strava - https://www.strava.com/activities/5875215192
Song that was stuck in my head all day - ... I really didn't have one! Ahh well.